Thursday, March 28, 2013

Trail Name

My trail name has been decided: 12 Ounce. This came to be because every time we go to eat and someone orders a 12 inch pizza, I call it a 12 ounce pizza. Kinda stupid, I know, but so is the case with most trail names. It first happened in Gatlinburg, and again in Hot Springs this afternoon. I guess living on the trail has just gotten my mind stuck in a world of ounces... So there ya go!

"Out Running Death and Hypothermia"

Greetings from Hot Springs, NC!

SOOO much crazy has happened since I left Fontana Dam and entered: THE SMOKIES!  Let me fill you in:

Dayt 18:  After staying in the lodge with Buscuits and Gravy we had a wonderful breakfast with our friends Chris and Cassandra before hitting the trail for Great Smoky Mountain National Park.  We hiked a fairly strenuous 15 miles up into the park to Russel Field Shelter.  It was a beautiful day, the sun was shining, and we were hopeful for a fabulous week of sun through the Park.  So were quite a few other hikers.  The shelter claims to sleep 14, but we crammed 19 hikers!  This was actually quite wonderful; though it had been sunny all day, the evening temperatures around 5,000 feet were still quite chilly, and the company was wonderful.  This large crew would become like family over the next few days, including fellow thru hikers: Ben (Corduroy), Jerod (Witch Doctor), Kat, Julian, Chris, Cassandra, Biscuits and Gravy, Trail Movin, Blue Moon, AYCE, and City Slicker (a guy from South Boston who has already Southbound hiked the whole trail and is now yo-yoing back up).

Day 19: Surprise!  Woke up this morning to see Chin Strap's (remember, this is Robbie now) tent set up outside the shelter.  He pulled a 20 mile day to catch us that evening around 9:30 pm (hiker midnight), when we were already hitting the hay in the shelter.  Today had some of the best views yet!  And was another wonderful clear day.  It was also my longest day of hiking up to this point: 16.4 miles to Double Spring Shelter, and another full one at that - 17 in a 12 person shelter.  But again, it was wonderful to have everyone, because it was a cold night -

Day 20: Woke up to a fresh 3-4 inches of snow!  It was quite beautiful however, and made for a fabulous hike up to Clingaman's Dome, the high point for the entire trail, at 6,644.  We didn't stay atop the lookout tower for long; the wind was blowing something fierce, and we were all eager to make it the next 8 miles to Newfound Gap and get a ride into Gatlinburg, TN to warm up and get some grub.  The outfitter in town runs a free shuttle, and took us straight to the Grand Prix Motel: hiker trash hotel at its best!  After a shower, it was off to KFC for a pre-dinner Famous Bowl, followed by the Brew Pub for some dinner and beer.  We spent most of the evening hanging out with two guys from Colorado, known across the trail as "The Colorado Bros."  Tom and Jack (now Dry Spot and Gollum) are quite the pair and made for energetic and fun company. 

Day 21:  Zero Day!  Spent the day hanging out in Gatlinburg with Corduroy, Biscuits and Gravy, and Chin Strap.  We played indoor mini golf and wandered around gawking at the insanity that is Gatlinburg.  I broke off from the boys in the afternoon to return to the Great Smoky Mountain Institute at Tremont (GSMIT) to visit friends.  I had worked here with the environmental edu. team during the summer of 2010, and there were still a few old familiar faces lingering, and some fabulous new faces that I already miss. 

Day 22: Back to the trail - took the 10:00 am shuttle from the outfitter back up to Newfound Gap and hiked 11 miles to Peck's Corner Shelter.  (Biscuits and Gravy continued further, and it would take Chin Strap and I a few days to catch back up to him).  The snow was in between a state of ice and slush, which made for wet walking, especially in the new trail runners I had just replaced my boots with (WAY more comfortable to hike in, but also WAY wetter....).  This was the beginning of the terrible weather.

Day 23: Rain.  It started raining in the middle of the night as we, and a crew of others, slept safely in the shelter.  Three boys from L.A. choose to hang out most of the morning, not wanting to hike in the rain.  I didn't want to hike in the rain either, but what else are you going to do?  It can't be sunshine, rainbows, and unicorns everyday.  Turns out those of us who choose to hike through the wetness made the right choice.  By early afternoon, the clouds parted, the sun returned (if only briefly), and it was beautiful.  I spent the entire afternoon hiking with Trail Movin, a rockin 61 year old!  He was a medic in Vietnam and is hiking in memory of all the men lost on his watch.  Super cool guy, and man, can he crush some miles.  I only hope I'm that badass when I'm 61. 

We hiked 13 miles to Cosby Gap Shelter, where it looked like it would be only a few of us at first, but then  a hord of 7 spring break hikers (5 middle/high school boys and 2 dads) showed up, and a few late coming thru hikers, leading to another packed shelter, and another cold night. 

Day 24: Woke up to semi-fozen shoes.  After bending them around a bit to loosen them up and a couple of hard shoves of the foot, I was able to get them on and hit the trail.  Only 11 miles to Standing Bear Hostel just on the other side of where the trail crosses I-40.  This was also the end of the Smokies.  Eight miles down hill, and we were at Davenport Gap with the Park behind us.  We celebrated thinking that the worst was behind us.  Everyone says, "Once your out of the Smokies everything is better."  Everyone lies!  (But I'll get to that). 

I don't know that I have covered Trail Magic yet - this is simply something that someone (usually a non thru hiker) does for you along the way.  Most often it is leaving a cooler of sodas by a trailhead or handing out candy bars as a day hiker passes you on the trial.  Then there is Fresh Ground.  I have never met anyone with a heart a big as his.  Fresh Ground section hiked a portion of the Southern Appalachian Mountains last year, and this year before he started his section from Damascus, VA, he decided he would send some trail magic love first.  We first came across him at Woody Gap, GA, where he had hot chocolate and coffee.  Then we saw him again outside of Franklin, NC, where his spread had grown to hot dogs, salad, hot chocolate and coffee.  But, seeing him coming out of the Smokies, set up near I-40 was by far one of the best moments on the trail!  He had run out of funds for trial magic, but the thru hikers he has helped couldn't stand the thought of him leaving us, so the donations started flowing, and man can you tell.  When we reached him, his spread included, hundreds of hot dogs (I ate 3), salad, fruit, twinkies, swiss rolls, chips, hot chocolate, coffee, and just about anything else a hungry, cold thru hiker could dream of.  He has even decided to cancel his section hike and continue following this bubble of hikers up the trail as long as funds keep flowing.  He plans on seeing us next outside of Erwin, TN near Roan Mountain.  He is truly a trail angel and I can't wait to see him again; not only for the snacks, but mostly for his joyful spirit and positive attitude - he can lift your moral with just a smile!

After leaving Fresh Ground (dragging my feet every step of the way), Chin Strap and I, as well as three others, Corduroy, Dumbledor (a girl named Mollie), and Grasshopper (Ian) arrived at Standing Bear Hostel where we stayed in a cabin together.  Nice enough place, but a little sketchy.  The owner, Curtis, is not the person you want to be on the bad side of... we will leave it at that.  But non the less, the 5 of us had a wonderful night, laughing and enjoying each other's company in our cabin.

Day 25: And so it begins.  You may recall earlier in this post, I mentioned the beginning of the bad weather.  Well, as we enjoyed our afternoon in our cozy cabin, it continued to snow all day and night.  From 1,800 feet at Standing Bear, the snow was only an inch or so, and not even sticking to the road.  Chin Strap and I were in a pickle.  We really didn't want to spend another night at the sketchy hostel, wasting money that didn't need to be spent, but we also didn't particularly want to venture out into the snow.  We decided continuing on was the only thing to do... after all, there wasn't that much snow.  WRONG!

It didn't take us long to work our way back up into the mountains and into 6-8 inches of snow.  We managed to drag ourselves 7 miles to the first shelter, where we stopped for lunch and to ponder our situation.  We decided again, that it was only 1:00 and we could easily push on another 8 miles to the next shelter.  In hindsight this was the right choice, however that afternoon we both felt a bit differently.

Not long after leaving our lunch shelter the snow got much worse.  As we walked along the ridge line, (now with fellow thru hiker Chickadee) the wind got worse, and would blow the snow over the tracks we had been following.  We had to plow our way through knee deep snow (about 3 feet in some places).  We were lucky though, we were able to follow a combination of tracks in front of us and blazes on trees to make our way to what is supposed to be one of the most beautiful stops on the trail, Max Patch.  This is a bald summit that had "beautiful views" all around.  Our experience was a bit different.  I was leading the pack up the mountain, and trying to break my way through waist deep snow, but could literally not move.  Every time I attempted to move a leg, snow would fill in the empty space.  I was stuck.  I turned, and saw that two guys, Snowman and Not It, had caught up to us.  They were also trying to follow the trail I was failing to blaze up to the summit.  I believe my exact quote was: "I can't move.  Do one of you want to try to break through?"  Snowman, in a bit of an adrenaline rush, plowed his way up to the summit, and we followed.  Just when it seemed it could get no worse... It did! 

Atop the summit the snow was only a few inches, if that, because the wind had to be blowing 40 mph or more.  It was miserable!  We walked at an angle, following the white blazed posts that had been placed atop the treeless summit.  We managed to make it across the summit and back down into the trees, where we were again in about a foot or more of snow, but at least the wind wasn't blowing. 

After an intense day of plowing through the snow, we finally managed to make it to Roaring Fork Shelter, where we found Biscuits and Gravy, nestled into his sleeping bag, and a few other familiar faces.  We took the last remaining spots, removed our ice covered outer layers, ate, and hunkered down for the night.

Day 26:  The only thing better about today, was we made it to Hot Springs, NC!  Woke up to some pretty cold temps.  Ate breakfast and made hot chocolate from the warmth of my sleeping bag.  I had to put my water bottle in my sleeping bag with me in order to thaw the liter of water that had frozen over night.  My shoes were also ice sickles.  There was no way I could bend them around enough to get my foot in - they were frozen solid.  I whipped my stove back out and hovered over it with my shoes, melting them enough to jam my foot in.  (I know all of you are wishing that you could start your mornings this way).  To make a long, story shorter, we hiked 18.8 miles into Hot Springs finding that the trail the second half of the day was mostly snow free. 


So we are here now, taking a couple of zeros, hoping that the warm weather moving in will melt the snow, and SO happy we made it out of the Smokies when we did.  The park got 4-5 feet of snow, and has been closed.  There are hundreds of thru hikers stuck at Fontana Dam and Gatlinburg just waiting. Some have shuttled up to Hot Springs, choosing to just skip that section of trail.  It has been crazy, but we are hopeful that the crazy is behind us. 

Uploading pictures to the blog didn't work, but I will be putting them on facebook, so check there! 

Until the next stop!

Kensey

Monday, March 18, 2013

Follow Some Friends

Hey.  So, 1) I lied.  A big storm moved in and Jeff (now known as Biscuits and Gravy - much better trail name), decided to get a room at the lodge and avoid the poor weather till it clears up tomorrow.

2) Some cool people to follow as well.  You can follow my friend Robbie at robbieday.net, and our friends Cassandra and Chris at their blog: hikingthegoodhike.blogspot.com.  They have the blogs for quite a few others we have met linked on their blog (which is FAR better organized than mine... don't judge).  They also have pictures up... don't judge, I plan on getting some up soon. 

Kensey

Pack, Hike, Eat, Sleep, Repeat

Greetings from Fontana Dam, NC!

Since I last updated the world, we have traveled about 55 more miles up to the entrance of Great Smoky Mountain National Park. 

Day 13 - our last day in Franklin, NC.  We had another delicious breakfast at the Normadie (for all you Albany folks, this is the equivalent of the Quickie - we were the youngest by about 45 years, and I was one of 3 women who didn't work there).  We also made one more trip to the Outfitter in town.  This is the same guy who helped Robbie and I out with our feet a few days before.  We learned to our dismay, that if we had been about two weeks later, he was moving shop to a bigger location that would include a Micro Brewery in the outfitter!  A hiker's DREAM!  Alas.  This will give me reason to return to Franklin one day.

After wrapping up our duties in town, we caught the 11:00 shuttle back to Winding Stair Gap where we had exited the trail a few days before.  We proceeded to hike the 11.5 miles to our Shelter for the evening, going over Wayah Bald, which had spectacular views all around, including views out to the Smokies.  We also met up with a new crew of hikers we have been traveling with since.  A wonderful couple from Portsmouth, OH, Chris and Cassandra have made fabulous company.  As well as Rooster, Ben, Kyle, and 61 year old Trail Movin (named because he his always up and moving at dawn). 

Day 14 - Had a long day of about 15.5 miles, up a couple mountains and then down about 3,000 feet to the Natahala River basin.  This was a rough day on Robbie, whose knees have continued to give him trouble. 

Day 15 - this is what we thru hikers call a Nero day (near zero).  It was a short half mile from our campsite to the NOC (Natahala Outdoor Center) where we gorged on ice cream, hamburgers, onion rings, and... BROWNIE SUPREME!  This however, was also where I parted with Robbie, though hopefully only temporarily.  He decided to hitch a ride into Bryson City to see a doc about his knees, and hopefully get something to ease the pain.  I decided to keep moving, since I will be taking a zero day in Gatlinburg in a few days to see an old friend of mine.  The idea is that Robbie will meet me there. 

After parting ways, I continued the 7 miles back up and out of the Natahala River basin.  Though it consisted of multiple hills, I called this day the 7 Mile Mountain day.  It was a quick climb of close to 4,000 feet.  It was rough!  But I made it, and met a large crew at the Sassafrass Gap Shelter. 

Day 16 - Happy St. Patties day!  For those who were with me in Butte last year, you will be pleased to know that this year did not involve any ER visits for myself or friends :)  Another longer day, but the miles felt pretty good.  Made it 15.2 miles to Cable Gap Shelter where I again camped with my new friends Chris, Cassandra, Rooster, Kyle, Ben, Trail Movin, and Jeff. 

The morning brought great views from Cheoah Bald, but the day was largely filled with steep ups and downs.  Had a wonderful evening at the shelter, chatting with my most recent family, and taking a single shot of Tennessee Whiskey to celebrate the holiday! 

Day 17-  Fontana Dam.  This is another nero day for most of the crew I've been hiking with.  It was an easy 6 miles in to the dam where we have showered, laundered our dirty trail gear, and gotten some grub.  For me, and many others, we will be staying at the shelter known as the Fontana Hilton tonight.  It sleeps 24 (most shelters sleep 6-14) and has bathrooms with running water!  True style.  A few are staying in the Fontana Lodge, but I decided I couldn't miss the oportinity to stay at the Hilton! 

Hope all is well with everyone out there.  I certainly missed my Missoula family yesterday - thought of Butte many times as I hiked :)

I should be able to update again from Gatlinburg this weekend.  Until then, farewell!

Kensey

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Step One: Avoid the Snow

Greetings from Franklin, NC!

We have made it to mile 110 (technically mile 109.7... but I'm rounding up).  The road to Franklin has been filled with ups and downs.

Night number 1 (March 2, 2013):  Robbie (now known as chinstrap) and I hope that this will remain the worst night of the trip (and perhaps our lives).  Listening to my mother would have been to wise a choice, so we decided to hit the trail from Amicolola State Park despite the winter storm warnings.  We reached Springer Mountain, through the snow (only about an inch or so) by late afternoon, took a picture at the sign, and celebrated with our delicious white merlot.  Two kind overnight hikers from Atlanta (Xavier and Brianna) let us and Outside Dog share the warmth of their fire and camp alongside them atop Springer.  Wrong decision number two.  Though temperatures reached approximately 14 degrees at the Springer Mountain Shelter (about half a mile down the mountain), with the winds atop the peak, it wouldn't surprise me if we slept in single digits.... (in a 40 degree bag with a "15" degree liner!).

Despite my fears of freezing to death in my sleep, we woke up to a fresh few inches of snow and frozen water filters.  All it took was one look between the two of us to know that we needed a ride into town and some hot coffee to thaw out.  To our luck, at the parking lot about 1 mile down from Springer, there was a kind soul who gave us our first taste of trail magic.  Nick (known forever more to us as St. Nick) not only gave us and Outside Dog a ride to Dalohnaga, but also back to the Springer parking lot so we could start again where we left off.

You are probably thinking, "My God!  Why would anyone put themselves through this?"  Don't worry, we were too.  But after warming up in town, and hitting the trail with sun on our shoulders, it could only get better... and it did!

Night two led us to Dan (now known as Jeff Gordon) at Hawk Mountain Shelter.  We have been enjoying his company on and off the trail ever since.

Day three was the first completely sunny day, and fairly warm day of hiking.  We made it to Woody Gap, near Suches, GA, and spent the night with a gaggle of wonderful characters.  Pretzel and JC thru-hiked last year and were just going from Springer to Unicoi Gap with their friend Nate who is attempting a thru-hike this season.  Pretzel and JC were a wonderful source of knowledge to have on our first week.  A German fellow, Izzy (E-Z) was with us as well as.

Day 4... Blood Mountain - The high point of Georgia.... and cold rain!  The hike itself wasn't as bad as I had built up Blood Mountain to be.  This is a breaking point for a lot of thru-hikers.  However, I did dislike the return of cold wetness.  We started the day early and made it the 10.6 miles to Neel Gap by noon, where past thru-hikers run a fabulous outfitter and directed us to rental cabins.  For a meer $15 each, we found a warm bed, hot shower, and free laundry!  Whoop Whoop!  This is also where Chinstrap, Jeff Gordon, and I met another friend, Joseph (trail name to be determined).  We 4 spent two nights there, choosing to take a zero day as another winter weather front moved in (at least we are learning from our mistakes!).  With another 5 inches of snow, and 40 mph wind gusts, we were glad to be in the warmth of our newest home.

Day 6: The sun returns!  For the next three days, we were able to really get in some miles during a stint of beautiful weather.

Day 9: We crossed our first state line!  North Carolina makes it clear that you have entered a new terrain.  Greeting us was a quick, near vertical climb of about 1,500 feet over about a mile or two.  Our spirits remained high.

Day 10: The rain returns.... and with force.  It rained all day on March 11.  Luckily, we stayed in a shelter the night of the 10, so our gear remained fairly dry, and we were able to make it to a brand new, beautiful shelter on the 11th as well.  We also did our longest mileage day yet: 16.2.  Though, this was likely a mistake.  Chinstrap's knees have been giving him trouble, and I was completely pooped by the time we reached the shelter. We will be taking it a little slower through the Smokies.

And here we are.  In Franklin, NC.  We hitched a free ride into town with Ron Haven, owner of the Budget Inn, were we spent last night, and will spend tonight (we being myself, Chinstrap, and Jeff Gordon).  Tomorrow we will hit the trail, headed for Fontana Dam, the entrance to Great Smoky Mountain National Park, hoping to arrive there Monday afternoon, and make it through the park in about 5 days.

As for my trail name, it has yet to find me.

Look for another post in about a week and a half from Hot Springs, NC, and/or follow my facebook updates.

Appreciating the positive vibes!

Kensey

Friday, March 1, 2013

Okay.... so I said I would give out some places things could be mailed... But, 1) We aren't big planners.  We are going to take it step by step.  SO, if you would like to mail a care package at some point (don't all jump up at once, this will take 5+ months), text or email me.  I can then get back to you with an upcoming stop.

Thanks for all the positive wishes.  They are greatly appreciated.

Kensey